Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Hola everyone,
   Transition to post-Camino living is slow and for that I am grateful.  My life pace is picking back up again and I am using my Camino memories to help keep me grounded and in the moment, an ongoing process none the less.

 My main reason for posting today is to let you all know that I am hosting a gathering:

Where:   The Unitarian Universalist  Church lower level
               2 Forge Road, Boiling Springs
               

When:    Saturday 12/1
              6-10ish
              Talk around 7ish

 Details:  Pot Luck  I will make chili and have cider and if you want to bring a dish to share that would be 
              appreciated.

 It    will  be an evening of sharing about the Camino with Gay Walker, Gerri and Bill Myers and myself talking about our individual experiences on the Camino,  eating, laughing, and perhaps some dancing.    Many of you have questions and want to hear first hand about our experiences so I thought it would be a great way to bring everyone together and   celebrate my 60th birthday as well.   

If you have any questions or want to call for any reason my number is 385-2170  Hope to see you there.

I will probably continue to blog about my lessons on the Camino and flesh out what I've already written should you want to read more of my ramblings.  I've discovered I like to write and it is a way for me to keep the Camino alive and in my heart and soul. 

Much love to you all for your ongoing support and belief in me.  I and we have much to be grateful for in our lives and taking time to pause and consciously  name those blessings sets the tone for the  day.  See you on the 1st.  Buen Camino to the journey in your lives and as always, embrace the day.  Love Camille

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Camille on and in the Camino

Hola everyone,
    My Camino continues although the location has changed, but then again so have I.   I am back in the states and home in Carlisle safe and sound, warm and content.  Timing and location location location seem to be words we hear alot when talking about real estate, but I realize how that rings true with life in general.  I am grateful that I managed to arrive in Carlisle a few days before Sandy made her appearance on the East Coast.   I left Santiago on the evening bus to Madrid last Thursday, almost a week ago, arriving at the airport Friday morning around 7ish.  My flight left at 10, so the timing was great.   The airline  made an attempt to sway me in the direction of staying an extra day, complete with hotel, food and transportation to and from the airport, but at that point, I was tired, and ready to come home, so I said bye bye to the voucher and got on a very full plane to JFK aiport.  Long story short, I had an uneventful flight to NYC, an interesting bus ride to the train station in Mid town where I was dropped off, not at the train station, but about 15 blocks away at 3:15 with the train leaving for Harrisburg at 4:00.  So, here is a visual, Camille rushing through mid town Manhattan with a full back pack on my back, looking like a person who has been on the trail for 6 weeks.  When you think about it, nothing all that unusual for NYC.  I made it  to the station on time, caught my train, dozed off and on and had a loving and warm greeting in Harrisburg by my amazing sister Barb. 

I must admit that the shift from Camino time to Non-Camino time has been a bit of an adjustment.  I realize that although I am now  moving toward re-working my relationship with time, I can still move into it with ease and with a Camino like  flow that is fluid and not rigid.  At least that's  my plan.   Time is a paradox and I intend to ponder more about how to embrace it   and be Camille in the Camino while  in Carlisle.  Obviously a long ongoing project :) 

I feel a bit discombobulated, not only from the fact that I am no longer walking 12 miles a day and  carrying everything I own on my back through Northern Spain, but from Sandy and her far reaching devastation and all the people that have been impacted through her force.  My heart and prayers go out to all the people who have lost so much in these past few days and are reeling from what has happened   and  the uncertainly of the future and what will happen.    Mother Nature is certainly a force to be respected and honored and not only brings beauty and joy, but devastation and heartbreak. 

My intent is to write a bit more about my time in Santiago, as I realize I did not write much about actually being in Santiago and how it felt to arrive.  I also intend to post some pictures and possibly have a gathering to talk about my experience, share it with you, celebrate my 60th birthday and celebrate you.  So, stay tuned for more posts from Camille in and on the Camino while in Carlisle.  Embrace the day with gratitude and joy.  We are here.  Love to you all.

Thursday, October 25, 2012


Hola dear friends,  

The journey continues.  I didn't get to write these last couple of days 
because  I was walking during the day, finding the alburgue and then 
going to the powerful ocean,  returning late and then to bed.  My Camino 
rhythm changed primarily because I was on a different Camino, to Finisterre 
and Lires and Muxia.  We had a leisurely start on Wednesday, the latest 
I've ever started my walking and it felt great. It doesn't begin to get 
light here until 8:30 so it is easy to rise with the sun when there isn't 
any real pressure. We were walking about 15k these past 2 days and there 
were few pilgrims taking 2 days   to  walk from Finisterre to Muxia.   
Alot of folks walked the 30 k in one day more because of time constraints 
than anything else. The day was mercurial and we had the rain,Wind, sun, 
more rain, cloudy but no rain, you get the idea. When we arrived in   
Muxia we decided to stay at the municipal alburgue, which means we were 
in a very basic alburguefoes 5 euros, nothing like the night before, 
which is perfect. Here we were in bunkbeds again with about 32 people 
total, but  we spent very little time there, only to sleep as the bus 
left for Santiago at 6:45 this morning. After getting our room we headed 
to the pilgrim office to get another beautiful Compostela showing that 
we walked from Finisterre to Muxia. Look out Carlisle  frame shops here 
I come.  Then we walked out to the Rocks. Wow!!!!  What a powerful place.  
 Legend has it that the virgin Mary came here in a boat to encourage a 
disillusioned St James that he was in fact successful in his attempt to 
bring Christianity to the pagan Druids. The rocks represent her boat. 
My recollections  of the legend around this are a bit sketchy  as I don't 
have the Finisterre /muxia guide book. I intend to purchase it and will 
give you more information when I get my pictures attached.  The rain and 
wind kept visiting  but  the wind and rain and sun and rock and the church 
on the rock, and the vast ocean and lighthouse and clouds and then the 
clear sky for the moon to kiss us brought all the elements into a harmony 
that seemed so profound.  I loved it here !!!!  I also had another magical 
experience and encounter with Manuel a fisherman from Muxia who gave me 
my own private tour of the rocks and their symbolism. He spoke no English 
and I no Spanish yet his love of the sea and this land touched my heart. 
He so wanted  me to know the power of this place.  It was truly another 
magical and powerful  Camino gift.  There are three large rocks of 
significance. One was  a fertility rock where couples will lay together 
and well I'm not sure about the and part. I laid on that rock and let me 
tell you any attempts at conception other than metaphorically could be 
dangerous to the health of the couple.  Why did you lay there you might 
ask. Keep asking ;).  There were actually two replicas, one male and 
one female in wax under the ledge of the rock.  Powerful medicine.   
I did not lay on this rock in the presence of my fisherman guide  
came back later.  Then there was the rock and ledge he led me to that 
will bless you with a long life and good luck if you crawl under it 9 
times.  He would not leave and take me any where else until I crawled 
under at least once.  So, I did. And then went back with my friends 
and crawled under 8 more times.  I am now going to live a long lucky 
life.  There was also rock that was cracked and would rock back and 
forth, bit we didn't spend much time here.   After my tour we shook 
hands and he ealked around a rock with his fishing pole and I never 
saw him again.  Hmmmm!!!!   Then  up to a 360 degree view of the town,   
the ocean and the moon with the night sky as the backdrop. Yes I  had 
my torch with me.  My new word for flashlight.  Feeling the wind on 
my face and looking out onto the vastness of the sea in the moonlight 
is a memory that will forever stay with me as the end of my Camino.    
So here I am on another bus beginning my journey home. Thank you for 
your prayers, energy, blessings, kind words, and belief in me.  They 
and you sustain me and help feed my soul. I will see you soon.   
Love and my embrace to you in my life.  Camille on, in, and a part 
of the Camino 

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Hola,
I am sitting on the beach on Lire listening to the surf at sunset. A sunny warm day of walking from Finisterre after a rainy cool day yesterday at the lighthouse. But as is always true here the weather changes as often as my mood sometimes, you wait and there is a surprise, no rain, mist or a chance to watch the rain move in off the ocean
Our bus trip from Santiago to Finisterre was beautiful winding around the and alot of villages along the way., although nit through the old sections.  We arrived in Finisterre and went to the Alburgue a friend recommended to check in and drop off our packs before the 3.5 k walk to  and from the lighthouse and the end of the world. It was great To walk without packs and  I felt  rather light footed although I  missed my sticks and I know they missed me:). The walk was leisurely and at a slow pace as we kept stopping to take photos and visit with people returning from the lighthouse. The rain was intermittent and the fog and mist played hide and seek dancing in and out and teasing us as we looked for photo ops.  At one point I looked  down  and in a clear moment saw goats clinging to the craggy rocks above the sea.  A definite photo op!!!  Then of course we went in to the bar to fry oug and warm up with  a cafe con leche before we attempted to burn an article of clothing or any other burdens we wanted to release.  I guess  my clothes need to come home with me and I released all I needed to release because we could not get a fire going or the paper burn.  Too much wind and the matches an paper were damp as well. No matter.  It was beautiful and wild and rocky and I can see why the Celtic people of this land  thought it was the end of the world.  Ocean ocean and more ocean off the rocky shore.  Then a great dinner of turbot probably caught fresh that day and short visits with people I'd met along my journey who came to Finisterre as well. Today while walking to Lire we met a woman who recommended a hostel or private pension.  What a find.  Clean beds and a  private shower with sheets and towels for 15 euros a person. The place is amazing with granite or marble floors and window sills   I think granite because it appears to be so plentiful here. We are the only guests although there is a steady flow of customers in the bar cafe.  I just finished a great dinner glad I'm walking another 15 k tomorrow and I'm sitting in the cafe-bar with a soccer/football game on the tv.  Some things are the same everywhere.  We spent about 2 hours or more on the beach watching the sun set and the moon rise listening to the surf and generally absorbing the sea vibes.  Tomorrow is my last day walking and I plan to soak it all into my pores.   Not sure of the weather but we will walk in whatever comes our way and I will imprint on my mind all mother nature gifts me tomorrow.  Donna, Mary and I came together in a true Camino fashion of meant to be and "oh this is why I missed the first bus" kind of event. 3 women from different corners of the world. Australia, South Africa and America walking their final Camino days to the sea.  Being open to possibilities a big teaching on the Camino.  Okay dear  ones time for a shower and then bed  My belly is full, my heart is full and my spirit light.  Life is good. Love to you all and embrace the day and all it brings.  Camille in and on the Camino
Sent from my iPhone

Monday, October 22, 2012

Hola dear friends,  today was a lovely day in Santiago. 
I firmed up some plans and leave for Finisterre tomorrow 
with my friend Mary from Australia. We will take a bus to 
Finisterre which will take us about 3 hours and spend the 
day exploring Finisterre, the lighthouse and find the fire 
pit out behind the lighthouse to burn an article of clothing 
and any other symbolic representations we want to leave behind, 
a Finisterre / Camino ritual.   On Tuesday we will begin our 
17 k walk to Liera where we will stay and then finish our walk 
on Wednesday in Muxia spend the night and bus back to Santiago 
on Thursday. I am very excited about walking along the coast and 
being with the wind and sea. This part of Galicia has a very 
earth based pagan/druid history and lots of legends and the 
Celtic Irish connection.  So add that all together and I am 
beyond excited and grateful  to have this additional time in nature. 
I will continue to write about my experiences here in Spain as my 
Camino continues.  I'm on the bus now hoping the skies clear as we 
near the sea and know that all will be as it should be rain, sun, 
cloudy, or foggy. Mother nature is my guide as usual here on the 
Camino. I must admit being in a moving vehicle for the first time 
in 6 weeks is odd as the whole travel / get tickets plan for 
returning mode has to engage.  But what has now become a larger 
question is how do i bring the calm and  peace of the Camino to 
my daily life as i re- integrate.    And the answer. It's a process 
and all will flow. Love to you all. Embrace this new day and take 
a deep breath of what I hear  is full fall in pa.   See you soon. 
Camille in and on the Camino. 

Saturday, October 20, 2012



Hola everyone. Well i did it !!! I'm herein Santiago
500 miles 700 kilometers from when I started 6 weeks
and 1 day ago in St Jean Pied de Port France. It is
a bittersweet feeling and I am spinning a bit. I am
definitely in the city now and it is busy here with
tourists and pilgrims and shopping frenzy. I go into 
that deer in the headlights so I'm going to just take
it all in and have some cafe  con leche decaf at this
point.  I'm in a lovely small pension/hotel near the
cathedral and will meet with some friends tonite for
dinner and Camino stories.  Still not sure of my plans
but all is well and I am grateful and joyful. Thank to
for all your support. It means so much to me and words
can't always convey such deep feeling and emotion.  
Love to you all from Camille still in and on  the Camino. 
Embrace the day and know you are loved.

Friday, October 19, 2012

Hola dear friends,
   Well I am about 4 kilometers fromthe cathedral in Santiago.  After 
a long walk from Salceda I decided to walk into Santiago on Saturday 6 
weeks and 1 day from when I started in St Jean. It was a magical final 
day of walking  the countryside if Spain.  I am so grateful for the sun, 
blue skies and cool temperature. It was a perfect walking day and the 
forest  of trees with filtered sunlight felt like they were literally 
humming with vibration and the smell of pine and eucalyptus was intoxicating. 
The alburgue I stayed  in yesterday,  you know the one where  I couldn't 
figure out the shower, well while filming  The Way Martin sheen and Emilio 
esfevez stayed there and the owner was quite proud.  I'm sure they stayed 
In The hotel part and not the alburgue part with bunk beds.  The entire 
place was well done and a combination  of rustic and modern.  Spent the 
day reflecting on the past 6 weeks and this evening re reading my journal. 
I know this pilgrimage is really a beginning and not an ending.  Tomorrow 
is a ritual that marks a powerful intention and also is a launching pad for 
the mystery of the unknown.  I will get my Compostela certificate tomorrow 
and attend the pilgrims mass and let life  unfold from there. At this point 
I am tired and I don't have another 5 days of walking in me so I  might take 
a bus to Finisterre which is known as the end of the earth and spend a night 
there before walking to muxia which should take about 2 days.  I heard  from 
a couple of people that the walk to muxia is incredibly beautiful with the 
wild sea as your walking companion.  Sounds very appealing to me  But, one 
thing I learned on the Camino is that nothing is fixed, life is about 
movement on all levels.   So we'll see.   Okay off to bed to rest up for 
my next adventure tomorrow. Love  to you all. Embrace the day and your 
life.  Camille in and on the Camino. 

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Hola dear friends,
     I made it to Salceda where I am staying in a new Alburgue/hotel that is very nice.  They are working on making it quite a combination hotel which charges around 30-40 euros for a single room to 9 euros for the alburgue which has about 16 beds in it or 8 bunk beds.  The bathrooms are quite nice and rather fancy and it took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to work the shower :)  Anyway i figured it out and it was hot so life is good.  And I have a pillow case, sheet and towel.  What a way to begin the end of my journey.   Yes, tomorrow I will be just outside Santiago.  I intend to walk to about 7 kilometers or a little less from Santiago which will make my day tomorrow about 22 kilometers.  Then I will get up early Saturday morning and walk into Santiago.  I am still trying to figure out what I want to do about the rest of my journey.  At this point i think I will take a bus to Finisterre and then walk to Muxia and stay a few days and bus back.  Not sure of all this because I need to look at bus schedules etc.  So, I will know more when I get into Santiago.  Today was a beautiful day, no rain, but that moist damp wonderful overcast weather that has the smells and woods moist and green green AND I walked through Eucalyptus trees today. YES, Euclyptus !!!  No Koala bears though.  It was great to stop and smoosh the leaves and get the smell and the bark on the tree is beautiful  Needless to say I took alot of pictures.  The other amazing think today was a casual encounter.  I was walking down the path through the woods and I see a man walking towards me and it appears he is a priest.  Well exactly.  He is a priest and he stops, smiles and asks me my name and where I´m from  and then takes my hands and gives me a blessing.  I was very moved by this, because that is what happens when you are in Spain walking on a pilgrimage.  Everyone wishes you well in whatever way is important for them.  Be blessed by a Spanish priest on a wooded path on a pilgrimage is powerful medicine. 
 
  I walked with another Irishman who was true to his culture and entertained me with stories for awhile, until he realized his pace had slowed down to match mine  and he needed to move on.  I´ve learned early on that I don´t try to match the pace of the fast walkers.  It does me in and I can´t afford to be done in and more that I already am at the end of the day.  Today was long for me, about 25 kilometers and I was beginning to wonder if I was ever going to come to the alburge.  I had just sat down  in a bus shelter of all places to look at my guide book when I see Annette and Hardy coming toward me.  They are the German couple I ate with last evening.  I thought they were stopping at an earlier town, but there they were with the great news that the alburgue was shortly down the road.   We just finished having dinner again and  talked about our feelings about being so close to Santiago.  It is bittersweet.  Like you want to hold on and go every so slowly, yet you can´t wait to see the cathedral and feel the intense emotion and energy that is present in that plaza.   Tomorrow will be the last full day of walking the Camino.  It is amazing to me that I am so close to finishing this amazing journey.  This has been beyond words for me.  So many memories and stories and feelings and beauty and and and, that it will be something I will be processing for a long long time.  Thank you for your support and kindness along the way.  I would never have been able to do something of this magnitude without my family, friends, and office family and all the people that have reading my blog and senind me good wishes, my clients and people I haven´t met.    I realize that we can be alone, but we are not seperate.  We depend on each other in ways that we don´t understand, be it a kind word, a smile, a you go girl, or even a negative vibe, it all impacts us  and crosses cultural and language barriers.  
 
So blessings to you all and a big heartfelt hug and kiss from Camille who is definitely in and on the Camino.  Much love and light and embrace not only the day, but someone in your life .   

Wednesday, October 17, 2012


Hola everyone,  well I am in Melide today after walking in the pouring rain from 
Palas de REI.  It was a short day for me of only about 15 kilometers. When I got 
onto Melide I ran into two German friends and we all three decided to call it quits 
and get warm and dry. Perhaps I am trying to make these last few days last or as 
the end is nearing I  am slowing down. I'm not sure, probably a mix of many things 
not unlike how my entire journey has been. I plan to be in Santiago by Saturday 
maybe before noon so I can attend the pilgrims mass, but i will definitely go to 
the pilgrims  mass on Sunday as I think they will swing the large 6 person 
needed to hoist it incense holder called the botofumeiro. In the movie The 
Way that scene was very moving and history says it was not only for the 
purification purpose that incense symbolizes but also to cover up the stench 
from all the smelly pilgrims. They didn't have many hot showers in the day. ;). 
There is room now for 1000 pilgrims at the mass so you can imagine the emotion 
and energy that is present. Today as I was leaving Palas de REI and just 
ready to begin a slight ascent onto a wooded trail I saw a bus open it's 
doors and about 30 people got out with various day packs and wooden 
walking sticks and multi colored ponchos. My first reaction was "0h no". 
And I began to slow down and avoid the rush and then I thought wait a minute, 
these folks are here for whatever experience they can have and I want to 
know what that is. So I said hola to the first person  I came along side 
and found out that it was a group from Puerto Rico that came together as 
a group and were headed to Santiago. I offered her a Buen Camino and moved 
on. I think they had a travel guide with them although if that is the case 
their guide was not very helpful in suggesting rain wear. There was a woman 
walking in the rain with cotton sweat pants a cotton sweater and no  rain 
gear.  Hypothermia waiting to happen. Eventually I saw her put on a rather 
thin poncho. I hope she is somewhere warm now. I find myself singing my 
way along the journey at times. Not always full out loud, but under my 
breath or quietly outloud or sometimes in my head. Today "I'm singin in 
the rain" was one of my tunes although I did not do my fred  Astaire /
ginger Rogers imitation. Too muddy. So tonite out to dinner with Annette 
and Hardy a German couple I met quite awhile ago. Actually Annette was 
walking alone when I first Met her and her boyfriend Hardy joined her 
about A week and a half or so ago. They've slowed down because Hardy 
has some knee issues. We Hope to get some Pulpo de Gallega the octopus 
dish with paprika that is a speciality here. I had it once about 5 days 
ago but want to compare and see if there is a difference.  I'll let you 
know  Tomorrow might find me in A Calzada or A Calle or Salceda. 
I will see what the day brings and the weather.  Love light and dry warm 
beds to you as you embrace the day. Camille in and on the Camino 

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Hola everyone,
Wow I had to pause for a moment to think of the day of the week.  I lost a day in here somewhere as I didn't post anything yesterday.   I got into Potomarin yesterday  later than my usual time, which always throws me off a bit.  Amazing how I can get into a schedule even a simple schedule, which is  get up, bond with my pack, eat a light breakfast cafe conleche, walk, break, walk, break, walk , walk, walk, get to the alburgue get a bed and make it home, laundry, write, explore, dinner, bed.  That is pretty much the routine, although I do shake it up a bit just for the sake of the "shake up"  Its good for the soul to shake things up every once in a while, espcially when you are on a pilgrimage in Spain.

The Camino in my mind is a very powerful energetic grid, like a lay line or an acupuncture meridian of the earth.  There is so much spirituality, religion, history, ancient wisdom, ancient trees, millions of stories and millions of feet that have tromped over the same land I am tromping.  That is some powerful powerful energy and the Camino Magic" happens everywhere.  I don't use that word magic lightly.  Things happen hear that are beyond time.  Sometimes I feel like i'm in a time warp, either time speeds up, or stops all together.  Well yesterday I had an experience that would definitely qualify as Camino Magic.  I started my day walking with the people I  shared the room with the night before.  I usually start out walking my self, so I was already plugged  into another time table yesterday which threw me off a bit.  How did it throw you off you might ask.  Well, I couldn t find my head lamp and it doesn't  get light here until after 8 am, and then  I went for cafe con leche and realized I left my guide book in the room, second time I've done that, anyway that wasn't too bad as the cafe was right next door and I didn't have far to go for the guide and I did find my light but not where I usually keep it.   So you get the picture.  Iḿ a bit discombaubled.  We all leave together, up the hill, walk a bit  out of town, down a nice hill to a bridge and all of a sudden I gasp, look down and realize I have someone else's walking poles !!!  Now this is a catastrophe.  My walking poles are like an extension of my body.  If that is so you might ask, why did it take you so long to notice.  Good questions.  Early morning?  Don' be smart!!  Anywway, I came to a complete stand still tryinging to figure out what to do.  I have another personś poles and they most likely have mine and I want mine back.  Sooooooo Back up the hill through the town, down the hill to the cafe where I had my cafe con leche hoping that my poles are there and the othere person is there.  EVeryone I pass I ask if they have their poles. I get to the care and I look up and my poles are there leaning where I put them and a young woman has just walkied out the door and is reachihng for the poles.  She hasn't even had time to register in her mind that they are not her poles when I say excuse me, she turns around looks at my hands  and says" those are my poles".  EXACTLY   I take mine give her hers and say "these are mine"  We smile and I shake my head in awe.  The timing of that was unbelievable  A few minutes  either way and we would have missed each other.  Add to that  the fact that she had just walked out and was ready to get her poles and leave and  didn't even have time to register that they weren't her poles. She was just reaching for them.    Add that all together and I say there was some Camino Magic.  I was soooo happy to see my poles, I haven let them out of my sight since and infact have been putting a twisty around them so people are clear that they belong to someone else and won't take them by mistake.

It was a long cold rainy day today and I am  so grateful I went to a little clothing sotre in Portomarin and bought leggings and good rain pants.  I am in Palas de Rei. The other day when it rained all day i was pretty wet and cold.  Today those rain pants kept me dry and the wind out.  I now understand  why outdoor enthusiasts buy good gear.  It makes a difference when you are out in the elements.  You don't miss having the rain gear until you are in the rain.  Brilliant insight Camille.  Well Iḿ an embodied kinda gal and learn my lessons best that way.  So, I am warm and dry and although it was a rainy  cold and windy day, we walked through some beautiful pine forests and I saw some amazing red and orange mushrooms.  I did not eat them, just took a photo of them.  Not sure where I will walk to tomorrow, maybe Santa Irene, or Salceda or Amenal Tunel   I want to stayoff the regular guide book stages as more and more people are walking now since they can officially get a compestela certificate if they walk 100 kilometers.  Sarria is the place where alot of folks start,, usually on a Monday and walk to Santiago doing their 100 Kilometers.  They have to get stamps to prove they did the walk, although Iḿ not sure how all that works.  I will find out this weekend when I get to Santiago.

Well dear ones, I am tired and ready for another cup of tea and dinner and then bed.  Love to you all, Appreciate your warm dry bed as I do mine and embrace the day, no matter what it brings.  Love to you all, Camille in and on the Camino

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Hola from the Camino i am in a great alburgue in Sarria once again 
via Camino travel agent Gerri. This place is gorgeuous stone and 
tile and sky lights and very old. It rained most of today so this 
is my first wet walking day. In the past the rain was intermittent 
or misty and then cleared. welcome to lovely green and wet Galicia. 
At one point you just say I'm wet and I can't get wetter  so why 
not stop and take that photo?   And I did because it was like i was 
walking down a hobbit tunnel of green moss and gnarly trees with 
white  crystal rocks everywhere.  Definitely a high energy place. 
Right now I would pay money to sit in front of a fireplace. It is 
damp and cold and still raining but all in all this has been an 
amazing Camino weather wise.  The last 2 days were so beautiful 
that a little rain is to be expected.  I had a great dinner 
last evening with Kim from Texas and then Theresa from Colorado 
joined us and we almost closed the place. In fact we were the 
last pilgrims in the place at 10. Waaaay late for us pilgrims. 
There was a large  table of local folks having a late  dinner 
and they wanted to know where we were from which led to lots of 
bantering and gesturing until we took leave after 10. I didn't 
think our alburgue closed the door at any particular time  but 
most  do have a curfew and a lights out time at night as well 
as a lights on time in the morning. Luckily I did not get locked 
out for being such a wild woman:). Tomorrow I will walk to 
Portomarin around 25 K. If I continue following the guide book 
I should arrive in Santiago by Friday or Saturday. Wow. Hard to 
believe.  This is an old Celtic medieval town I would like to 
explore a bit before dinner if it isn't still raining.  Drink a 
hot cup of tea for me and know you are loved. 
Camille on and in the Camino. Embrace the day. All of it :)
 

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Hola  I am sitting in the sun on a rock fence in Triacastela 
with tomorrow finding me on my way to Sarria tToday was another 
sunny cool breezy fluffy cloud kind of day with a wee bit of a 
chill in the air. I find it magically interesting that my first 
full day in Celtic influenced Galicia found me walking on two 
separate occasions with pilgrims from Ireland. Daniel was a 
delight to chat with and Margo is a massage therapist and 
nutritional counselor And we had nothing to talk about:). 
Walking has brought me closer and deeper within the earth 
and land and elements.  The stone here literally vibrates it 
seems and the nooks and crannies and green spaces evoke magical 
and mystical ponderings and then you round a bend and a vista 
opens up that brings you to a vast space within.  Ah nature as 
poet and teacher.  What a gift. Today on the trail I watched 2 
different farmers herd their cows  up the Camino path using 
dogs usually German Shepard mixes and curved staffs to tap 
the cows on occasion.  The cows  are usually very docile except 
today when an Impatient and stupid cyclist continued to pass 
by spooking one cow to attempt a meager charge. The woman farmer 
and I made faces and i did the finger to  my head in a circle 
for the universal sign of crazy and I then said stupido. 
Doesn't endear the cyclists with the local farmers  It seems 
odd that I can be in Santiago by a week from tomorrow , but if 
all goes well that will be the case. I want go continue another 
4 or 5 days to Finisterre but that all depends on how I feel 
when I get to Santiago. I have the time so why not?  Everyone 
is feeling a bit odd about the end f our pilgrimage coming upon 
us. Once again a paradox and mixture of emotions. Grateful joyful 
excited to go home afraid to go home how will I integrate did I 
change. How  did i change  many swirling questions and only the 
moment and the gift of letting them settle where they may. So 
dear ones off to dinner with Kim from Texas and a good nights 
rest. Love to you all  embrace the day and smile for me. 
Camille in and on the Camino

Friday, October 12, 2012

Hola,  okay my words fail me when trying to convey to you the depth of 
beauty that was before me  today.  I made it to Ocebriero and i am 
officially in the region known as Galicia pronounced ga lee thia. 
The first bar i came to  around one ish  had Celtic music playing. 
I knew it was going to be a good day. :). After a rather confusing 
start because I started  when it was dark AND the markers were't very 
evident the day was magical.  I had perfect sunshine cool breeze blue 
sky and white clouds to escort me through what almost felt like a 
rainforest after the dry conditions I have been walking through. It 
was lush with green green green and water and birds twittering and 
the glorious clanking of cow bells and my daily rooster call. Many of 
you might not be aware that I am a chicken whisperer and  today I think  
I might gave been invited to join a group of chickens. I can't remember 
what a group of chickens is called  if anyone can enlighten me when i get 
back that would be  great. Anyway back to my story. The vistas took my 
breath away and it really is amazing I made it here at all because of 
my gawking and photo shooting. The trees and water at times took me 
back to Pa and their is definitely a Fall vibe happening here.    The 
rolling vast vistas can not be captured in a picture although I try. 
This is so different than the region that was so dry that when we 
walked on the trail there were puffs of dust.  Not today.  Oh I almost 
forgot when walking today the cow bells sounded louder than usual and 
that was because a man and woman were escorting the cows down the 
Camino trail. I stepped aside for them :). I often write about the 
people I meet and it must appear that I am always with someone , 
but that isn't so at all. Most of the time I walk alone and might 
chit chat with folks as I pass or when we stop for cafe con leche. 
I find I love the silence and i really don't want to chat all the 
time.  Amazing you say.  Ah the miracles if the Camino.  Ocebriero 
is a gorgeous little town but very touristy. Nothing wrong  with 
that it just seems odd after the little villages. Beautiful things 
but my shopping gene is on hiatus until Santiago since I have to 
carry everything I buy. Okay it's cold out here on the stone wall 
overlooking a vista I am going to take a photo if and I'm ready for 
dinner.  Live to you all embrace this glorious day. 
Camille in the Camino 

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Hola everyone,  I started putting  the days on my post because I forget what day it is. My plan was to walk from Cacabelos to La portela de valcarce but I kept running into old Camino friends in Villafranca and then a visit to the grocery store and before you know it  time elusive time moved on.  Not  to worry. I stopped in Trabadelo at a very nice municipal alburgue with only 3 bunk beds per room great showers and a kitchen, so I am enjoying a cup of tea.  Today's walk was nothing short of amazing. Words are so limiting to describe vistas that undulate from mountain to mountain. I decided to take the Recommended route that is steep with vistas and not as much road walking.  Alot of people take the route through the valley but if  given a choice and my body is cooperative I choose the more scenic route.  It was strenuous today. Imagine  flat rock in colonel Denning times 5 Up and up. And then down and down.  Amazing chestnut groves busting with chestnuts. How sad when I think of he blight. It was chestnut trees that were affected by the blight right ?   Anyway these old growth groves feel so gentle and peaceful. It's not a feeling I have often felt when in the presence of producing fruit orchards.  Of course I haven't walked through many apple orchards for hours either. Mmmmmm. Maybe an Adams county stroll in my future  I also walked through more vineyards today but it appears they are harvesting or have already harvested because there aren't many grapes hanging around and I know the pilgrims did not eat them all.   Today I also saw my first rainbow that was actually on the trees and ground. I was up so high it didn't even make it into the sky. I was stunned and very impressed !!!!  I was walking Alone on the trail for quite some time after I left Villafranca and then out of nowhere a young man appears and he is from Lancaster.  Okay now we pause to sing it's a small world.  He was moving much faster than I and moved  on but we are staying at the same alburgue. I also ran into Phillip the young German man I met awhile back and mentioned in my blog  He looked great and is healing his blisters and doing fine.  It is so uplifting to reconnect with people, although we move on and don't know if we will reconnect again.  It really does bring impermanence into play. Oh and my Italian friend Valentina is here a well. We were at the great alburgue owned by the husband and wife I talked about awhile back.  So you can see  the ebb and flow of the Camino, Both inward and outward.   This town is next to a busy highway so I am having 81 and turnpike moments. It was ver odd to be up so high today and hear traffic an see the highway below, but life is contrasts and it is evident everywhere.  Well tomorrow I hope to start my journey through Galicia which has a rich Celtic influence. My irish genes and bones are already vibrating.  I will hold all you Irish friends close and send added blessings your way. You non celts will get extra blessing as well. Love to you all and embrace the day.  Camille on and in the Camino.

Sent from my iPhone

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

-->
Hola dear friends,  I think of you all often back home and hold you
close in my heart and will look at the time and wonder what's 
happening in carlisle and the routines that are being followed. 
It keeps me connected energetically and underscores that time on 
clock hours is so relative. So having said that it is dark here 
and 10.30 at night and therebitnis 4:30  I am in Cacabelos after 
a long  mostly hard scape walk through Ponferrada another fairly 
large city with lots to do and see. I had  a long breakfast with 
great conversation and 2 cafe con leches on the outskirts with a 
woman I met from Colorado  who started in Pamplona and is 
bicycling the Camino by herself.  We had a great chat after 
she biked off I  walked off and and left my map and guide book 
on the table of the cafe. The good news was that I was not  10 K 
on the other side of Ponderrada but within a mile or so but the 
fact that I walked that stretch 3 times on sidewalk had my body 
talking to me about paying attention and gathering my things 
before I leave. I'm also having a grandma read flashback in that 
inner voice :)    Anyway the cafe owner had my precious well worn 
book in a safe place behind the counter and gave me a knowing 
smile when I rushed in with a big question mark on my face.   
It mad for a long day so when I arrived in Cacabelos around 5 
I was done in  and decided to splurge on a Hostel room.  These 
rooms tend to be more expensive 30 euros compared to 5, 7, or 
donation and are more like a hotel room of sorts. I didn't get 
a bathtub although I practically begged for one, but towels 
sheets pillowcase a small balcony with clothes line a pot of 
mint tea and my own bathroom with hot water.   Life is good.    
And the church is right outside my window with the  bells 
striking 10  pm. I love those bells. I also heard  cow bells 
again yesterday for the first time  since walking in the 
Pyrenees. Remember yesterday I was bemoaning the fact that 
I was so focused on my feet and walking that I missed the 
blackberries?   Well I made up for my lack yesterday.  What a 
great way to start the day.  On another food note,  I went 
down to the lobby and ran into  a woman from Texas I met a 
week ago who is also staying here. I went out to dinner with 
her and another couple from California and had my first Pulpo 
a la Gallega or octopus Galicians style.  My cousin Daniel who 
lived in Santiago gave me a list of foods to try. He did say I 
must eat the octopus while in Galicia or it would be like eating 
a Philly Cheese steak in Dallas Texas, but I am getting pretty 
close to Galicia and  plan to try this dish multiple times  if 
was delicious and Cooked  with oil paprika and boiled potatoes Mmmmmm.   
The vegetable soup was also awesome this evening.  I will  most likely 
walk to Ocebriero on Friday which is another amazing climb with views 
to knock your socks off.  Hopefully the full force rain I am hearing 
now will move through and the weather Gods will gift me with good 
weather.   I am tired and ready for bed. No Ear plugs or sleeping 
bag  tonite !!!!!! Ah the simple pleasures. Be well my friends, 
embrace the day. And know you are loved Camille in and on the Camino. 

 

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Hola everyone,  Wow what an amazing day on the Camino.  I don´t quite know where to start, so how about at the beginning.  I left Rabanal del Camino around 7:45,  I wasn´t sure how far I would walk today, but the ultimate destination was Molinaseca and I made it for a distance of about 26 K .  What stood out about today was the diverse weather patterns and the terrain.  The sunrise was a show stopper over the mountains and then a short time later the clouds came and with them, the drizzle and then the sun and with that a glorious double rainbow as a guide to La Cruz de Ferro, the cross at the highest point on the Camino where people leave their stones and other powerful totems.  It is a powerful place and the sun was shining when I  arrived.  The mountain views were astounding and at one point I thought I might have been transported to Skyline Drive in virginia, but that passed and it was very evident I was in Spain.    Then it began to rain and the fog and clouds moved in.  Then a while later the sun came out and I could see a  view that took my breath away and then the coulds again and the rain and the fog.  You get the idea a very mercurial day weather wise.  bodywise it was rough rocky terrain that gave new meaning to the word focus.  I was very much in the moment.  So focused was I on the rocks, that I missed the blackberries along the trail.  Now that is just sad:(     But my taste buds would have to miss out as the rain slicked rocky terrain needed my full attention.   Then I walked into a Acebo where there is a great bar with my beloved cafe con leche AND a fire in the fireplace to dry out all the wet pilgrims.  They sold alot of garlic soup today.,  It was there that I ran into Rose from Seattle who I met earlier on the Camino.  We continued to walk together and we are both staying at a great Alburgue that my  Camino travel Agent Gerri recommended.  Thanks again Gerri for your awesome recommendations.    I also ran into Tuan a guy we met at the beginning of our walk from DC who is in  fishing commodities, although I´m not quite sure what that means.  He is a great guy and it was so wonderful to catch up with him and talk about our Camino adventures.  On the walk this afternoon I came upon a grove of old growth Chestnut trees, I think they were Chestnut.  I took pictures.    They were huge. I really did feel like I was in the apple orchard of the Wizard of Oz fame.  These trees had some ancient wisdom and it was obvious that other folks felt the sam as there was a small fire pit in the center of the trees.  The one tree was  at least a 6 person hug.  I was entranced and it was all I could do to not curl around that tree and have a late afternoon lounging session, but it was late and we needed to move on.  I didn´t get into the alburgue until after 5 and that is late for me.  I like to get in by 3 or 4 so I can get laundry done and out to dry. We had a very filling dinner this evening here at the Alburgue with 2 women from Perth Australia.  It was a very poignant conversation and I am grateful to have met them and for them to have shared their Camino journey with me and I with them.   As we get closer to Santiago, you can feel a shift happening.  Not only within me, but I think with others as well.  I am still very much here and in the moment, but I am now realizing that I could be in Santiago a week from Sunday,  10/21  Not sure if that is going to happen and I also want to walk an additional 4 or 5 days to Finnisterre known as ,the end of the earth and the ocean, but once again, it depends on my body, my time frame and if it is meant to be.  We have another mountain  to walk, but I find the up is not so difficult, it is the down that is more challenging for me.    So, my dear friends, the Camino as always gives many gifts and I only ask that I be as open as I can be to recognize them and embrace them.  So with that good night to you all, as it is 9:30 here in Spain and I need to go bond with my feet before bed.  Love to you all, and embrace the day.  Camille in and on the Camino 

Monday, October 8, 2012

Hola dear friends.  This evening finds me in Rabanal del Camino a 
lovely little village about 8 kilometers from La Cruz de Ferro which 
is the highest point on the Camino and the place where everyone 
places their stones. I am staying in an alburgue run by the London 
based confraternity of  St James called Gaucelmo and it is a very 
healing place.  It is beautiful  and quiet with an herb garden and 
orchard   I just met a husband and wife from England who came to 
give the garden a face lift.  Alot of  these alburgues are run by 
volunteers who come for 2 weeks or longer. The hospitaleros that 
are here for these 3 weeks are delightful and we had tea at 5.  I 
was thrilled. There is a couple here from New Mexico traveling with 
their 2 year old daughter Pasquale and their 9 year old som Mateo 
or Teo for short as he informed me.  Earlier he was in the library 
doing his homework. Ah even homework needs to be done on the Camino. 
Pasquale and I bonded over making chocolate bisquit sandwiches for 
tea and she is quite a delight. Toby the mother was another Camino 
angel who gave me more good advice for my pesky blisters that involved 
a foot  soak in vinegar and salt to help dry them out. I am entering 
the mountains and the terrain is changing from flat scrub to pine 
and forest. Every day the scenery changes sometimes more drastically 
than others so i am grateful my cold is moving on because I so look 
forward to smelling the forest and it is very sad when your taste is 
gone with your smell.  As I sit here writing there is a blazing fire 
in the fireplace. Yes you didi read that right a fire in the fireplace. 
Tea in the  herb garden and fire in the fireplace. I am blessed and 
content. Not sure where  I will be tomorrow Gerri mentioned a great 
alburgue in Molinaseca but it might be further than I want to walk. 
I will see tomorrow.  Time to go to the pilgrims mass and blessing. 
Love and light to you all. Camille in and on the Camino  embrace the 
day love to you dear ones 
 

Sunday, October 7, 2012


Hola everyone,  I am in Murlas de Rechivaldo a little village about 19 kilometers from where I stayed last evening.  The beginning of the walk was lovely and wild but as the day progressed so did the congestion , othe sun and the asphalt. As I mentioned in my post yesterday I don't like the large cities and and Astorga was no exception. Although there were many beautiful sights to be seen,   I did not have the energy for the noise and all the people so I continued on and I'm in a small quiet alburgue with a central courtyard. I'm sitting in a very comfortable chair on a porch overlooking  the courtyard and drinking a cup of tea.  I'm tired today as I am fighting off a head cold. These alburgues can be like little Petrie dishes with intestinal bugs and colds.  Our bodies get run down from all the demands we put on them and the  nasties just hide in the corners and look for an opportune moment. I seem to be moving  through it quickly but I was definitely ready when I got to the alburgue.  They have a beautiful husky Shepard mix dog who thought he was taking my bag of nuts  and chocolate but to his dismay , in his haste to grab and go he took the laundry soap bag.  Needless to say it remains intact as does my snack :).   I saw my little German friend Nichole also known as Nicky today.  She is looking  good and was movin' fast this morning.  We took a break together and she has found her land legs and will do great.  I hope Phillip gets the same confidence. She isn't walking with him anymore and I didn't see him at all today.  Tomorrow I start heading for the mountains.  And most likely on Tuesday I will reach La Cruz de Ferro where I will leave my stones.   There is a scene of that cross in be movie The Way.  This is the highest point on the entire journey and I'm looking forward to being in the mountains again. A quiet day in Camino land. My reserves are  low and I am in a quiet space contemplating the next few days.  Love to you all , embrace the day and enjoy.  Love Camille in and on the Camino.
 


Saturday, October 6, 2012

Hola everyone,
  It is about 8:30 here and I can barely keep my eyes open.  Amazing that I want to go to bed so early, especially after eating an amazing dinner served by the owner of this alburgue/hostel.   I am staying in Villares de Orbigo a small village about 3 kilometers from the bigger city of Hospital De Orbigo.  I walked a little over 17 Kilometers today, and it felt great.  Tomorrow I will make it to Astorga, but will probably not stay there as I want to stay at an Alburgue Gerri recommended in a town outside Astorga.  I find that I don´t really like staying in the bigger towns, my soul enjoys the quiet of the villages.  The alburgues are less crowded and the pace much slower.  In fact at this amazing alburgue I am staying in  this evening in Villares, there are only 3 of us  here.  A man from Belgium and a woman from Italy and me from the good ole USA.  The place is beautiful and it is the kind of home any of us would love with a small central courtyard, lots of plants, tile and wood floors.  The owners Paulo and Melin are originally from Madrid and met while walking the Camino.  They made a life style decision about 3 years ago and decided they didn´t want to start a family living in the city, that small village life was the way for them, so they bought this house , remodeled it and now are living their dream.   Paulo is an amazing cook and this evening we had a rice salad with seafood, peas and a dressing he would not divulge and leaf lettuce.  The main course was a beef stew with vegetables and a delicious light custard pudding for dessert.  Not too shabby.  I´m going to have to walk those 12 miles tomorrow to burn some of these calories.  Okay no more sugar in the cafe con leche :)
  
   Once again I am touched by the kindness and generosity of spirit of the people in Spain and the pilgrims walking the Camino.  This morning after a great breakfast.  I was putting my bandages on my feet for the blisters when the chef came out of the kitchen and said I will do this for you.  She went to the other room, came back with a maxi thin sanitary pad, cut it in half, put it over my toes and taped it in place.  The owner of the alburgue is a physiotherapist and this woman has been working there for 5 years.  She told me he taught her how to take care of blisters.  Who knew  !!!  So off to the supermacado for Maxi thins  :)    My feet felt fine today, although I have another little blister growing.  Nasty little pests, but all is well.

I  then had an opportunity to repay the kindness of the chef by giving some of my supplies to a young man from Germany I saw sitting  along the road with his shoes off looking miserable.  He stayed in the same alburgue as me and we recognized each other.  I stopped to ask if he was okay and he wasn´t.  Not only did his feet hurt, but his spirit was very low.  He just started the Camino the day before in Leon and he was discouraged and lonely.  We sat and talked for awhile and I shared with him some wisdom that I´ve learned from walking the Camino and we parted hoping to see one another again.  A little while later I came upon another young woman sitting alone and she too had been at the alburgue. We started to talk and it was her first day on the Camino as well.  In fact she and Phillip had been walking together for while until his blisters forced him to stop.  She was discouraged and sad and missed her family and thought she might have to quit.  But, paying it forward, we chatted and laughed and I massaged her sore shoulders, parted with a hug and then shortly after met at the local cafe/bar for a cafe con leche.  Ah the healing power of cafe con leche.   Amy you are right I see an expresso machine in the office.  We talked some more, took photos of each other hugged and off I went.  About 2 hours later I saw them walk into Hospital de Orbego and we once again hugged and laughed and celebrated their making it.   They are in their late 20´s and walking the Camino for their reasons and I applaud an honor their courage.     Why we walk is as diverse as the people who walk,  but we walk !!!!   With the healing power of nature and and a  pilgrimage that is thousands of years old., the combination of all that   energy and history is  going to impact us in some way.

  Everyone walks their own Camino.  I met some folks yesterday that are here for their honey moon and already took the bus to Astorga.  They are here for a walking vacation.  Other folks have an agency drive their backpacks from alburgue to alburgue and they walk with a day pack.  I´ve seen people on horseback and walking with a a donkey and of course the folks on bicycles.  The Camino is your Camino.  No right or wrong or in between.   It is what it is for you and that is the gift.

  So  I am sleepy and full and content.  I have clean sheets and clean pillowcase and blankets on this cold evening.  The rain has held off for now, we´ll see what tomorrow brings.  In the meantime.  Thank you all for being in my life and supporting me with your energy and love.  Embrace the day and enjoy.  Love, Camille on and in the Camino

Friday, October 5, 2012


Hola everyone,   I am in Vilar de Mazarife about 20 K or 12 miles from Leon.   I left this morning around 8ish and cafe con leched myself to this little village around 3 ish.  I chose a route that was very much like the Meseta, not crowded, open with vast sky and fields that are plowed for the next planting of corn.  It was great to walk along and hear the rustling stalks of dried corn.  Definitely reminded me of home.   Yesterday was a different kind of day for me.  After having such an incredible experience in Mansilla, perhaps there was a bit of let down, my feet were sore and tired or it is the fact that life is that way,  a mixture of many many things.  The alburgue I stayed in was a Benedictine monastery in the old city and it was quite crowded.  Part of my Camino experience is the realization that I feel best when I have a bit of space around me.   Space for my pack, space to be out of the sleeping area, a place to get composed and still.  Verrrry interesting learning on this end.  I also realize that my feet were in a healing mode, which means that they got a bit worse before they got better and as a result of that my energy was down and I was challenged.   Its all good and I am aware that its how I choose to react in situations that makes the difference as ¨sitautions¨will always  be in our lives.  Nothing all of you don´t already know.  Its just on the Camino its like the lessons on on steroids :)  Today my feet felt fine with the walk and I had a glorious time with the open sky and sun.  

 I went to a blessing of the pilgrims service last evening that was given to us by the nuns.  It was lovely and parts of it were sung by both the nuns and the pilgrims.  My lack of speaking or understanding  Spanish made  it difficult to fully grasp what was being said, but without a doubt you could feel the sincerity and compassion the nuns were conveying to us for our journey    I also  went to the catedral in Leon and toured it yesterday. The stained glass windows are beyond description.  This catedral was a bit more manageable and not as overwhelming as the one I toured  in Burgos.  The architecture boggles my mind.  The sheer enormity of it all.  This particular catedral was rehabed because  its structure  was compromised at one point and apparently it was one of the most extensive rehabs done on a catedral in Europe.  From what I understand the entire project was one big risk   We aren´t talking in this century. Try the 12th century.  History here takes on a whole new meaning.  

 Today was also a festival day and there were parades and people everywhere.  All kinds of booths set up selling things, a Spanish Medevial fest honoring the Saint . of Leon, San Froilan.  As I was walking out of Leon  there were crowds of people walking along the same route as the pilgrims.  It turns out we were all walking to the town, La Virgen Del Camino which I guess was the epicenter of the festival.  It was great to see all the people out and about, but I didn´t hang around much as I wanted out of the city and onto the open space part of the Camiino. 

  I am staying at a great Alburgue and anticipating a great group dinner they are preparing for this evening.    There are quite a few Americans here, from Indiana, Oregon, California a couple of women from Australia, a guy from Lithuana, some guys from Sweden, and a couple from Japan.  And that isn´t everyone:)   I also ran into some old friends from Germany that I´ve been passing off and on for weeks.  They are staying in the Alburgue across the street and it was great to catch up and chat with them a bit.   

Okay that´s all  for now, not sure if I will go to Astorga tomorrow or stop off at a town closer to Vilar de Mazaarife.  If I go to Astorga it is 30 Kilometers and that is more than I like to walk in a day especially since my feets are still healing.  At this point, according to my guide book, I am 183.5 miles from Santiago.  Hard to believe.  Okay dear one, bye for now.  Embrace the day and enjoy.  Much love to you all,  Camille on and in the Camino

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Hola dear friends,
  Today finds me in Leon, a fairly large city.  I am staying at an albergue called Santa Maria de Carbajal a Benedictine monastery in the old city.  We are in  dormitory style rooms with bunk beds, but once again I lucked out and got a bottom bunk against a wall.  The accomodations are modest and clean and it works at 5 euros.  I wanted to be somewhere a bit calm after the walk along busy highways this morning.  It was very interesting entering the city and walking by car dealerships.  I could have been on the Carlise Pike  I passed a Volvo dealership and a Honda dealership.  I was tempted to walk in and see the Honda Fit, but I resisted :)  

 I had a most interesting morning and evening last night.  I will start with the evening and move onto  this morning.  As you remember from my post yesterday I sat by the river and  while I was resting I was , journalling, reading and listening to all the glorious nature sounds.  I went back to the refugio and did some laundry, made a pot of mint tea and was just sitting in the sun.  Met a woman from Canada who is walking with her husband and cousin, shared a cup of tea and then made plans with them for dinner.  Ealier I met a couple from Georgia, originally from Cuba, and they told me about an amazing restaurant right around the corner, so  my new Canadian friends and I  made plans to eat there.  Went to the Pharmacy to stock up on foot supplies, tape, gauze, Ib profen creme, etc, probably more information that you are really interested in hearing, but here it is none the less.  Dinner was awesome.  Lasagna cooked to perfection for the first course, pork ribs and sliced potatoes that melted in your mouth and a delicious chocolate cake.  I can eat this stuff coz I walk 10-12 miles a day.   YEAH !!!!!!!    Okay after dinner we are walking back and we round the corner and in front of our refugio is a bar restaurant with families and little kids sitting on outside tables laughing, visiting, and generally having a great time.  There were about 4  little kids from 3-4 kicking a soccerball around with their parents engaging with us as we walked by and this is all around 8:30 in the evening, which is when everything comes alive.  It was so cute to see the little ones running around on the street playing.  Now these streets arent´like Walnut street  in  front of my house.  Very narrow brick streets that cars do come down, but not often.  I guess we might call these alleys in Carlisle, but alleys with bar/restaurants, small neighborhood groceries  and the most amazing store with fabrics and christening dresses and lovely lace and tablecloths.  I was drooling.   Anyway.  I get into the refugio and meet this delightful young man named Paulo who is about 11.  His mother is best friends with Laura, the hospitelero who has been helping me with my feet.  What a charmer.  Oh my God.  We had the best time trying to communicate.  He had these really cool red glasses on, all the kids wear them, but they have clear glass in them.  At one point we exchanged glasses and I told him he was now seeing through the eyes of an American and I was seeing through the eyes of a Spainard.  He really liked that, although I think if he kept mine on too long, he would have gotten dizzy.  I asked to take his picture and before he would let me he ran into wash his face and comb his hair.  He was a little Don Juan and a charmer.  Before the evening was over he gifted me with something like crackerjax tiddly wink, discs you slide along the floor,
After my feet were cared for by Laura, she invited me to go out for a drink with her Carlos, the massage therapist and her mother.  We went to the same bar where I had dinner and sat around chatting, in Spanish and English.  What was so incredibly delightful was the fact the Laura´s mother is in a local choir singing group.  I´m not clear if it is church related or something like Cantata Carlise.  They ask if I like Spanish music and I burst into a smile and said  of course.   And then, this most amazing thing.  She begins to see a Spanish Aria for me !!!!!!!  Sitting at the bar drinking cafe con leche around 10:00 in the evening this lovely woman is singing this soulful Aria.  .  Then she starts singing a Spanish folk song and Carlos and Laura join in and the Waitress and another waitress and it almost brought me to tears.  Amazing.  We laughed and sang.   What a true gift.  I will never forget it.  As I said good night to them, her mother told me that was my home.  I think I´ve been adopted.
   Being with those folks was so healing for me and I will be forever grateful.

  But wait there is more.  This morning I was walking early.   I left around 7:30 and about 1 1/2 hour later came to a bar/restaurant where I went in for breakfast.  Joined a Swedish guy  I had met named Jo and met the most amazing character who owned the bar.  He looked and acted like Tony Soprano.  No kidding.  He had loud and I mean Loud classical music blasting, Walzes, mozart, and at one point I watched him behind the bar conducting.  We bantered back and forth laughing and I told hime Muy bien, very good and  How I loved the music  and what a  great way to start the day.  The sweet part of this was that  after I paid him he asked me where I was from and I said USA.  And of course big smiles, pennsylvania, etc etc.  Wellll,  I get outside and I hear the music from the loudspeaker outside, yes loudspeaker outside, shift to more like punk or something and them I hear a song I recognize.   Next thinng I know  he comes flying out  the door to make sure I am still there.  He had searched is music to find Born in the USA by Bruce Springstein for me !!!!  I was so touched and we laughed and hugged and I will never forget Louis the Tony Soprano  and Music man of Spain.  He even had musical notes on the filigree of his door.  I have pictures of him and the door.  So dear friends, it has been and most musical and magical time for with the the dear kind people of Spain.  I will always remember these last two days as a bringer of joy into my life a gift I want to nourish and keep alive always.  Thank you for letting me share all this with you and in my writing I hope you can experience the joy as well.  

 I am heading out into the big city now to tour the catedral and look for silk liner socks a pharmacist from Canada I met this morning told me to get.  I want to sit in the sun and soak it up.   Much love to you all.  Tomorrow I will most likely go to Villar de Mazarife.  Gay is about 2 1/2 days ahead of me and gave me the name of a great alburgue to stay in while I  am in that town.  So another 20 K or so tomorrow.  That seems to work for me.  My blisters are healing as is the tendonitis, but I think it all won´t resolve until I am finished walking.   No worries.  I´m doing great.    Okay love to you all and Embrace the day.  Camille in and on the Camino